The debate between ceramic coating and PPF has been going on for quite some time now, and each option has its pros and cons. However, I had two major concerns that prevented me from choosing PPF:
This leaves me with two options: sealant and ceramic coating. I have had very good experiences with TurtleWax Seal N Shine. It is easy to use, requires minimal preparation, and lasts for 4-6 months (highly recommended). Here is a photo of my Triber after 2.5 years of use, applying Seal N Shine every 4-6 months:
I decided to use a ceramic coating to enhance the protection. It is important to note that coatings are not magic; they play an important role in protection, but the overall effectiveness depends on how you maintain and clean your car. Sealants are great for beginners, as most do not take long to cure and are very easy to use.
There are many beauticians offering ceramic coating services with prices ranging from 6000 to 50,000. Some packages include annual coating maintenance for 3-5 years. I consulted 4-5 beauticians and when I asked them which brand of ceramic coating they use, most of them could not answer and only a few mentioned local brands. When I asked how they prepare the paint before applying ceramic coating, I did not get any satisfactory answers. I received a promotional video on WhatsApp where a technician is polishing a new car with a rotary polisher using a thick wool pad and paste. This made me even more doubtful and frustrated with the whole process. After I started asking questions, many beauticians who used to call me 2-3 times a day to book an appointment stopped contacting me. Although some beauticians look professional, glass surfaces, alloys and decorative coatings require significant additional costs, and the total bill is well over 50,000 euros. I chose the DIY method because it allows me to adapt the process to the actual conditions of use of the paint. In addition, I can choose specific products for each stage depending on my preferences.
Wavex Paint Stripper – Buying a quality paint stripper is critical as dealers often apply large amounts of thinned silicone emulsion to the trim and paint during delivery to improve the appearance. Paint stripper helps remove this temporary coating/residue, allowing the ceramic coating to adhere more effectively to the clear coat. Some people also use dish soap or degreaser for this purpose. I chose Wavex because I had used their degreaser in the past with good results.
Gyeon Q2M Prep – This is used after the polishing step and removes all the grease and residue left after polishing. I bought the coating so I chose the same brand.
Gyeon Cancoat EVO – The star of the show, Cancoat EVO, which I included in my list along with CarPro CQuartz Lite. But I can’t get CQuartz Lite from any reliable source. The next choice is Cancoat, which has virtually no drying time and can be applied to all exterior surfaces except the windshield.
Wavex Iron & Sludge Remover – For removing fine iron particles from paint. After considering alternatives like Autobros, I ended up going with Wavex. Although international brands like Carpro also offer similar products, their prices are quite high.
Meguiars Ultimate Polish is hands down the best polish I have ever used. It has a runny consistency, is easy to apply, and does not dry out quickly on painted surfaces. One bottle lasts a long time, and the price is very reasonable.
Wavex Detail Clay Blocks – I didn’t want to buy regular clay blocks and the international brands were overpriced.
TurtleWax HS Ceramic Surface Cleaner is a versatile solution for cleaning, conditioning and protecting. It is easy to use and does not leave a sticky surface.
Sonax Upholstery Cleaner – This is not necessary, but I found it helpful for removing stubborn stains.
Microfiber Car Wash Mitt: I prefer a car wash mitt to a sponge because it’s easier to get into all the nooks and crannies.
Edgeless Microfiber 340GSM – I have been using Softspun microfiber cloths for a few years now. This time I bought the rimless ones specifically for rubbing the coating on. I also have two more 550gsm towels for drying the car.
Wavex suede applicators. To prevent the foam from being absorbed into the product, there is a plastic spacer between the foam and the suede fabric.
JPT 6″ Black Polishing Pad – Choose a low-cut polishing pad, assuming the new paint won’t require much touch-up.
Power Sprayer – I used this to spray the clay lubricant, emphasizing the importance of lubricating both the clear coat and the clay strips to prevent unnecessary damage to the painted surface.
JPT DA Cordless Polisher – Each battery lasts about 50 minutes, which is great for a weekend sander like me. Compared to cheaper rotary polishers available online, this machine is significantly lighter and comes with a 6-inch backing plate.
First I removed all the tape and scotch and then washed it with degreasing shampoo. The photo clearly shows the glaze applied to the front grill. Thorough cleaning is necessary to ensure effective adhesion of the coating.
I apologize in advance for not documenting every step with photographs; we were racing against the sun.
Go through each panel, examine them individually, and note any defects. In my case, I noted relatively minor defects and provided steps to correct them.
White crusty residue (I’m not sure what it is, but it was also present during PDI, so I’m guessing it’s probably residue from the factory compound.) [Clay]
This step should be done before claying, as claying will not effectively remove iron contaminants that are deep in the pores of the clear coat. The liquid turns purple when it comes into contact with iron particles, and while I did not notice this color change on any of the painted surfaces, it did turn purple when sprayed on both front wheels. (Do not allow the iron remover to dry on the paint.)
I washed the car again with degreasing shampoo to completely remove any remaining iron remover from all surfaces it was applied to.
NOTE: Step 5 usually involves treating the car with bug repellent and tar remover, but I skipped this step as it was not necessary.
It is very important to focus on panels and areas where you can really feel the surface contamination (use the plastic bag technique or just run your finger over the painted surface and you will know). You do not need to clay every inch of paint, especially on a new car.
To make the clay grease, I used a mixture of shampoo and water at three times the concentration recommended for washing a car.
When applying clay, first clean the surface of the clay block. Spray clay lubricant on the clay block and the painted surface and rub it in a crisscross pattern. (Do not use circular motions.)
NOTE: Typically buffing is done before polishing, but I skipped this step since there was no need for significant paint correction.
At this point, I decided to use a low-cut black pad since I only wanted to do minor paint corrections. It’s actually a two-step process: first prime the pad and paint surface at low speed, then once the target area is properly primed with polish, increase the speed to begin the actual correction. This was my first time using a polisher, and I was a little nervous before starting, but it went very smoothly and I had no issues with polish splashing. I even wore 3M safety glasses to protect myself from splashes, but with proper technique and the right amount of polish, it shouldn’t be an issue. (Cover the finish, or at least keep polish off of it.)
Important step: I sprayed Gyeon Q2 Prep on all surfaces that needed to be coated, left it for a few seconds, and then wiped it off.
My friend and I did it this way: I sprayed the coating on a suede applicator and applied it to the surface in a criss-cross pattern. Meanwhile, my friend had two microfibers: one for the initial wipe and one for the final finish. Since the coating flashes in a split second, there is no guesswork or watching; once I finish a particular area, the coating simply wipes off. At this point, I coated all painted surfaces, trim surfaces, side door windows, mirrors, headlights, and all alloy wheels.
It took about 50 minutes to cover the entire car, and we repeated the same steps for the second coat, for a total of two coats. (You don’t need a lot of product; applying too much will not only require extra effort to remove the excess, but will also result in wasted product.)
I am very pleased with the results. It is a great feeling to see the results of our hard work in person. We stood there for a while, admiring the appearance of the car.
Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with the brands mentioned and all products were purchased with my own money. Wavex Strip Hair Wash Shampoo:
NOTE: This does not include interior work as we have decided to finish the work after the exterior work is complete. I will provide an update in a later post.
For me, car detailing is a form of therapy. After all, no one cares about your car more than you do, and from my posts you can see that the actual amount of materials needed for a car is very small. When you hire a detailer, most of the fee goes towards paint correction and following the correct process, which is achieved through knowledge and experience.
Overall, have a great time on your next car trip! Hopefully this article has given you the knowledge to help you make smart decisions and ask the right questions when caring for your vehicle. Until next time, happy servicing!